Couture news

Introducing Ginette, a blouse that's either very classic or very extravagant, depending on the fabric you choose. Slightly fitted at the bust thanks to diamond-shaped darts, it leaves plenty of room at the bust and hips. Its slightly sailor collar can be adorned with a ribbon or braid. For added comfort, the cuffs are elasticated.

Take care to choose a fabric with a little hold that will give a clean fall. You could, for example, choose a crisp cotton poplin, a thick viscose or why not a métis (linen/cotton blend). A thick polyester or silk satin can also give a nice result.

As we like to please you, we've included a bonus booklet (for subscribers only) to replace the sailor collar on the blouse with an extravagant "flower petal" collar! Have fun adding one, two or as many petal tiers as you like.

To make Ginette, you'll need..: 

-2m70 of 140cm-width fabric or 3m30 of 110cm-width fabric,
-a little fusible webbing,
7 small 15mm-diameter buttons,
-2m30 flat ribbon, 10mm wide,
-50cm of 1.5/2cm wide elastic.

And if you're doing the "flower petal" collar version, you'll need :
-60cm fabric in 140cm width and 80cm fabric in 110cm width,
-a little fusible webbing,
-1.50m of 5mm ribbon.

You'll find the video hereas well as the subscription pattern here or by the unit over there.

See you in January with Jacob's boss, to celebrate the New Year!

Text by Nina Peronnard

Introducing Hypolite, the year-end surprise for Lemonade Couture Club subscribers! Hypolite is a top inspired by haute couture. Add sleeves, a skirt, change it into a dress, it can be an incredible base for your own projects. We could only make a very limited quantity, sold only in our Quai de Valmy boutique, so we wanted to offer it as a bonus pattern for you to enjoy. 

Here's Georgia, a figure-hugging dress ideal for special occasions. Long but slit at the back for carefree walking, it counterbalances its simple silhouette with an XXL Pierrot collar. Like Bao, this dress is very close to the body, and we strongly advise you to do one or two tests in a canvas and then in a fabric close to the final one to make any adjustments. 

As Georgia is made up of very few pieces, it will be easy to trace the curves of the side or mid-back lines to get the right fit and better flatter your morphology. You'll be able to go from a size 44 to a size 42, for example. In addition to pattern alterations, we advise you to think about using stretch fabric, and to consider cutting sleeves on the bias. 

Speaking of fabric, stretch is almost mandatory for this sewing project. Choose a fabric with at least 8 to 10% elastane for greater comfort. We recommend poplin (stretch), velvet, but also jersey, neoprene, Rome stitch, or why not lace? The collar can be made in a contrasting color, or even in a completely different fabric for that Pierrot collar effect: lace, voile, muslin... the choice is endless. You'll need a little patience to finish the invisible hem and gather the collar.

To make Georgia, you'll need :

-2m70 of 140cm-wide fabric or 3m30 of 110cm-wide fabric,
a 45cm-long invisible zip,
-pattern available here in pdf by unit or as a subscription here.

Watch the video explanation here and for Lemonade Couture Club subscribers, a surprise pattern awaits you at the end of the month in your subscription area!

Here's Sissi, a jacket that many of you have been asking for as a pattern, and which will be ideal for cooler weather. Whether short or long, it's the perfect partner for your favorite pants or skirt! This jacket allows you to wear a medium-weight sweater underneath, but if you want to wear it as a winter coat, don't hesitate to go up a size.

We've chosen a fine wool blend with a check pattern from Etoffes du Sentier, for a little warmth but not too much thickness, but there's nothing to stop you opting for a warmer, fluffier wool for a coat, or on the contrary, a cold suiting wool to wear it in any season. Remember to respect the front and back center seams, as well as the pockets if you choose a patterned fabric. Beautiful in plain colors, you can add a touch of originality by making the under-collar in a contrasting color. You can push the detail to the limit by applying a velvet ribbon or grosgrain to the edge of the collar and flaps, as we did on our jacket currently on sale here. But be careful at what stage you add it! 

We've also taken advantage of the video to show you a little ironing trick to avoid shining your fabric. You can use it on the reverse side of wool or velvet fabrics.
If you're already used to sewing jackets and coats, Sissi will be very easy to make (allow 2 days for production, including fabric cutting). For a little more difficulty, you can swap the patch pockets for welt pockets, so don't hesitate to pick them up on the Hendriks trench or the Uma coat. 

To make the short version of Sissi, you'll need :

-2m of fabric in 1m40 width for the largest size, or 2m60 in 1m10 fabric,
-1m50 lining in 1m40 width, or 2m20 in 1m10 width,
-1m fusible webbing (wool ideally),
-1 pair of cigarettes,
-1 18 or 20cm button.

For an extended version of the Sissi jacket, allow 30cm for fabric and lining, in addition to your initial consumption. 

You'll find the video here and the pattern for sale here individually or subscription. 

We hope you enjoy your sewing session and look forward to seeing you next month with the Georgia dress pattern and, for subscribers, a little end-of-year bonus!

Introducing France, a dress that's a little uniform, a little vintage, but still practical and easy to match with your wardrobe. With its high neckline that highlights the headline, it's close to the body at the bust, and more comfortable on the skirt part. Of course, it has pockets, and a slit at the bottom of the skirt lets you frolic without restriction all day long.

And as the model lent itself well to this, we decided to give you the added bonus of being able to add sleeves! Here's how to do it, and you'll see how easy it is.

                                            

                                            

                                            

                                            

                                            

                                            

                                            

                                            

Introducing Bibi, the adorable little collar to slip under all your sweaters and tops in winter, or wear on its own in summer over a bra (or not). It brings a touch of color close to the face, and its collar points, a little tartan but not too tartan, give a retro wink to your outfits. You can play with the tie and button details to make it unique, and because it's small, it's very economical on fabric.

Introducing Flora, the flowing jumpsuit for sunny days, for a fashionable silhouette with endless legs, not to mention comfort thanks to its elasticated waistband. Pockets are hidden in the side seams, and you can tighten or loosen the collar knot as you wish.

Of course, for the material we recommend a fluid, supple one, and the more slippery it is, the easier it will be to slide the collar tie and waist elastics. As a matter of habit, we opted for a muslin (made of polyester for easy transport in suitcases, as it wrinkles less than other materials), which we found in two different colors at Coupons de Saint-Pierre. The colors are right in the spirit of our Memphis collection. Otherwise, we recommend satins, crepes georgette, voiles, or if you want a little more hold, why not look into poplin or plumetis. Flora can be made into a dress simply by replacing the bottom with two rectangles of fabric! You'll need 0.75cm elastic, in two pieces the length of your waist. If your fabric is very soft, you can also use a little iron-on for the bow. 

To sew Flora, you'll need :
-3m50 of fabric in 1m40 width,
-2x your waist in 0.75cm wide elastic,
-fusible webbing if needed for the bow.

You'll find the tutorial video at here and the boss over there. And a little end-of-quarter surprise: if you have a subscription, this week you'll have access to the Bibi collar pattern, a great way to transition from summer to autumn!

This is Polette, the slightly vintage dress with the bust tied at the nape of the neck, decorated with rings. It fits all breasts without any risk of mishaps, thanks to the elastic that holds the fabric (and the bust) in place at the armholes. You can make it in a pleated fabric like ours, or in a normal fabric, gathered at the waist. And even if you're lucky enough to find sunray pleated panels, this will be a perfect opportunity to use them on the skirt part! 

Polette is a very easy dress, especially if you make it in a classic, slightly opaque fabric. On the other hand, if you want to make the cups and skirt in pleats, you'll need to remember to keep the pleats closed (with a hand stitch, machine stitch or scotch tape) before cutting your pieces, and this step can be a little tedious. As for the rest, there are no major complications, although we've decided to show you how to hem a muslin handkerchief for a truly haute-couture finish.

As for the choice of material, it will look best in a light chiffon or chiffon-like fabric, in polyester or silk. Avoid coarse fabrics such as linen and ramie, which can swell at the gathers. Cotton veils may be an option. If you decide to use a fabric that has already been pleated, make sure it contains >30% polyester, so that the pleat is permanent. Otherwise, you'll have to iron the pleat after each wash... We found ours at Marché Dreyfus, quite transparent but reasonably priced, and mixed it with a polyester muslin from Coupons Saint-Pierre. The mix of two shades of blue made the step-by-step easier to read, without breaking the bank. However, keep in mind that pleated fabrics are still quite expensive, so if you find an opaque one, you won't have to pay for a lining! As for the rings, they're a little extra touch of originality, and you'll be able to find them quite easily on the internet, in boutiques specializing in beads and primers. These ones come from Etsy and are made of acetate, but you can also find them in acrylic, metal or wood (beware of machine washing, which is not recommended for this last option). 

To sew Polette, you'll need :
-2m40 of fabric in 1.40m width,
-2m40 lining in 1.40m width if your fabric is transparent,
-70cm of 0.5cm wide elastic,
-1m elastic 4cm wide,
-2 rings with inner diameters from 35 to 45mm.

You'll find the video here and the booklet here. Next month you'll find the Flora jumpsuit pattern at the end of the month, and if you have the subscription, you'll also get a little surprise pattern to round off our Paris to Memphis collection!

Introducing Hayet, the dress you'll wear all day long... and all weekend long! For events big and small, it's your ally for an elegant touch. Ample and comfortable at the bust, it's closer to the body at the skirt, but still comfortable with pleats at the front and a slit at the bottom. Of course, it's got pockets, and you can show them off like we do, by playing with the fabric pattern. 

We chose a cotton stretch poplin (97% cotton, 3% elastane) for this model, but it's not necessarily the most advisable fabric for this project. Indeed, with its batwing sleeves, thicker fabrics are likely to make unsightly creases in the arms. Ideal fabrics include: thin poplin (she'll look great in Liberty), crepe or double-crepe or satin-backed crepe, satin, light lace, silk weaves (twill, pongee, satin), or why not go extravagant with lamé! As for accessories, we've decided to use buttons, but you can also use a long zip to fasten from the neckline to the skirt. 

To sew Hayet, you'll need :
-2m20 of fabric in 1.40m width,
-2m40 of tone-on-tone bias binding if you're not doing it in the dress fabric,
-4 buttons, 10 or 12mm diameter,
-30cm rat tail,
-18cm invisible zip.

Introducing Darling, the combi that's ready to take the plunge into summer and enjoy the great outdoors. Comfortable, yet practical, with large pockets, a front zip and a collar that gives it a cheerleader feel. Find a zip with a pretty slider or a vintage buckle for a touch of originality!

We chose to sew Darling in a Damier printed cotton poplin from the Soul Trip collection, which will soon be available on the site. However, as this material is a little thin, we ironed more parts than usual (notably the pockets, to avoid transparency effects). We therefore advise you to choose a fabric with a little more hold, especially if you opt for a heavier metal zipper. Our favorite choices are milleraie or corduroy velvet for winter, gabardine, twill fabrics, trouser fabrics, denim, seersucker or chambray. As with Dylan, you can have fun with contrasting, thicker thread stitching, or keep the finish simple with ribbed stitching. What's more, there's nothing to stop you turning Darling into a trouser suit by mixing the Darling top with Dylan pants! 

To sew Darling, you'll need :
-2m fabric in 1m40 width or 2m55 fabric in 1m10 width,
-fusible webbing for collar and waistband,
-1 zip 50cm long,
-1 5cm belt buckle with barb,
- 6 eyelets.
And for help, the video is by here.

You can find zippers quite easily in haberdasheries (ours is from Fil 2000), and for belt buckles we recommend browsing flea markets or Etsy, or why not have a buckle covered in fabric (most haberdasheries offer this service). Of course, you can also use a tie belt or one from your closet!

This was the last pattern of the spring season, and we'll be back this summer with patterns for the Hayet and Polette dresses and the Flora jumpsuit, all three ideal for the summer season!

Enjoy your sewing session and see you soon!

Here's Dido, a little extravagant but so memorable you'll be the star on the beach this summer! Somewhere between a bob and a floppy hat - because we couldn't decide between the two - it lends itself to all fabrics, as long as you iron it on and make sure the multiple topstitching adorns the visor. Add a pretty cotton cord and a stopper to push the detail to the limit, and voilà!

Very easy to sew, you can finish it in an afternoon, including cutting the fabric, and if you make people jealous, you can give it as a gift (we're counting on you)! For our part, we used our daisy pink fabric, and a polka pink satin lining, which you can find at here and here. For the cord and stopper, we found them at the Marché St Pierre, but you can also find them at haberdashery online. Dido is a pattern reserved exclusively for subscribers, a little treat you'll find at the end of every quarter, in February (our Cindy pattern arrived a little late), May, August and November. It signals the start of the good times, with the Darling pattern available at the end of the month. 

To sew Dido, you'll need :
-0.7m fabric in 1.40m width or 0.9m fabric in 1.10m width,
-0.5m lining in 1.10m width,
-0.5m fusible webbing,
-1m 5mm cotton cord,
-1 stopper,
-have a subscription (it's per here to subscribe).

Happy sewing!

Introducing Dylan, the pants with a 90s vibe, but with a high waist! The simple, figure-lengthening cut is enhanced by pocket details and double topstitching. We recommend that you do the latter in contrasting thread, or even better, in corded thread. However, if you want to save time, you can do them in tone-on-tone, or use simple topstitching.

When choosing fabric, remember to choose one with a bit of staying power. For our part, we opted for a fabric with a reps weave (which offers a fluted effect) in chocolate color, in a blend of cotton, wool and polyester from the boutique Les étoffes du Sentier. For a similar effect, go for velvet or gabardine! Of course, depending on the look you're going for, the variations are endless. Why not go for two-tone pants in cold wool for a revisited suit pant? Or faded denim with contrasting stitching for a true 90s revival. 

We've chosen to make the topstitching in white corded thread, and if you'd like to do the same, we'd advise you to prepare your cans of tone-on-tone and corded thread in advance, as you'll have to juggle between the two. Be careful, too, in choosing your sewing needle: it should be strong enough to support the cordonnet thread, but not too thick if your fabric is a little thin. If you like the contrasting effect but your fabric is thin, the safest choice is to go for classic thread! 

To make Dylan, you'll need :
-2m50 fabric in 1.40m width or 2m70 fabric in 1.10m width,
-1 button 20 or 22mm in diameter,
-1 20cm pants zipper,
-fusible webbing for waistband,
-cord thread if required.

Don't forget that the booklet and video (here) are there to guide you!

We hope you enjoy your sewing session, and we'll see you in May with the Darling combishort and a little bonus for pdf subscribers!