Petit guide à l'usage des passionné.e.s

A short guide for enthusiasts

For once, we're putting the sewing machine to one side and taking the time to return to the essentials of sewing - needle, thread and scissors - to offer you a little booklet containing a few useful techniques for embellishing your garments. 

"Petit guide à l'usage des passionné.e.s" is conceived as a schoolbook or manual where you'll find step-by-step instructions for making an invisible hem or a knotted stitch (great classics), as well as instructions for cutting your fabric to fit, or even for making more surprising finishes, such as a scalloped hem or a removable feathered hem. 

All in all, it's a great way to keep busy before the new school year starts, and to practice new techniques, take a breather and approach your sewing projects in a new way, always looking for a little more inspiration. 

 

In a very sunny "déjeuner sur l'herbe" atmosphere, we decided to take some of our models and rework them by highlighting details of their cut: the Camille top with the addition of braids and guipure, the Karla bottom dress with embroidery stitches and the very angelic Deniz dress with its airy sleeves.

Click here to download our free "Little guide for enthusiasts" pdf booklet.

 

 

And if you're a subscriber, you'll find the pattern of the month at the end of August: the Liberté model (available in 3 lengths), as well as an exclusive subscription bonus, the Solène bucket bag.

 

August 18, 2023 — Laure Goussain
Patrons Kids

Kids Patterns

The pattern family is growing with new children's patterns to get your back-to-school wardrobe ready now!

Four models and a birth kit join our pattern library, with layette models from 1 to 12 months and children's models from 1 to 8 years. You'll find must-haves like Davina, the emblematic dungarees reworked for the occasion, as well as basics like the Malté bloomer.

Birth kit 1 to 12 months, available individually in pdf and in the subscriptionincludes :
-the Malté bloomer, to be declined as desired,
reversible Basile jacket/gilet for a 2-in-1 look,
-the Lazare crush, adorable for keeping your ears warm.

On the kids' side, you'll find Suzanne, Alba, Romy and Davina patterns, in sizes from 1 year to 8 years, only available in the subscription area.

Ideal for fast-growing children, Suzanne dungarees are elasticated at the back, and you can make the straps longer to adapt them as the child grows.

Romy is the blouse to slip on everywhere, with its pretty Pierrot collar, to be made in soft fabric. Practical, it retains the ruffled, elasticated cuffs, and the buttoned back makes getting dressed a breeze.

As for Alba, it's the jacket with a pocket for keeping your little everyday treasures (sweets, pebbles, daisies...) just like your parents, but above all, you can make it reversible, for those indecisive mornings! 

To subscribe, click here : Lemonade Couture subscription and for the Naissance kit in pdf by unit, go here : the Birth Kit.

August 04, 2023 — Laure Goussain
Comment coudre un pantalon Kévin ?

How to sew Kévin pants

Introducing Kevin, the simple pant/paréo embellished with a bow on the front. Hidden darts are found on each leg to shape the buttocks and support the tummy, and patch pockets on the back keep your belongings close at hand. The invisible zip hidden under the bow on the side of the leg keeps the line streamlined. Flared legs flatter the silhouette. 

For this project, we anticipated making Kévin with the Liberté top arriving in August, and decided to make the ensemble in a soft viscose/linen fabric found at Coupons Saint-Pierre. This fabric is ideal for summer, but there's nothing to stop you experimenting with different materials, as these pants will lend themselves to many variations. 

Kévin is a close-fitting pant, so you'll need to choose your size according to your hip size. If you have a small waist, we recommend that you make a 30cm-long mock-up of the top of the pants and see if you need to deepen the darts or curve the top of the side seams to tighten the waist.

To sew Kévin, you'll need :
-2m60 for a width of 1m40 or 3m for a width of 1m10,
a 25cm-long invisible zip,
-50cm of fusible webbing for interior trim and knot if required.

Visit the step-by-step video here and the pattern by unit here or in subscription here. 
We'll be back at the end of August with the Liberté model, which will be available in 3 versions: crop-top, tunic or dress!

July 28, 2023 — Laure Goussain
Comment coudre une robe Lexie?

How do I sew a Lexie dress?

Introducing Lexie, the two-taste dress to overcome any indecision! Bi-colored or bi-motif, it lends itself to every style, and there's nothing to stop you from making it plain. With its bow at the shoulder, it adapts to all bust lengths, while the bow at the waist allows you to loosen or tighten the waist as you wish, at any time of day. And as comfort is paramount for us, it has a front slit for easy walking and a hidden side zip for putting it on in no time at all.

We advise you to choose a fabric that's supple enough to maintain the gracefulness of the dress. Try to choose two relatively similar fabrics. Play with color combinations - acid, pastel or bright - or combine large and small patterns.

We chose a lightweight polyester satin from Coupons St Pierre. As luck would have it, the same fabric was available in several different colors, and we went for all of them. If you're not too fond of polyester, you could opt for a cotton-elastane blend, a viscose or why not a cotton gauze for real Greek statue inspiration? Sf your fabric is too thin, don't hesitate to iron the bows. 

To sew Lexie, you'll need :
-1m of 140cm wide fabric or 1m20 of 110cm wide fabric for part of the dress,
-1m80 of 140cm fabric or 2m of 110cm fabric for the second part of the dress.
-a little fusible web,
-1 invisible zip 35cm long.

Visit the step-by-step video here and the pattern by unit hereor by subscription here.

See you next month with the Liberty top pattern. In the meantime, check out the bonus pattern for the Lilibeth dress, only available via the Lemonade Couture Club subscription and its dedicated article. here.

June 23, 2023 — Laure Goussain
Comment coudre une robe Lilibeth?

How to sew a Lilibeth dress

This is Lilibeth, the perfect combination of everything we love: square neckline, shoulder bows and a full skirt. With its four panels in front and back, it's very fitted to the waist, then flares out. The neckline highlights the bust with elegance. The straps are adjustable and tie to create a little fantasy. Of course, pockets are hidden in the side seams, and an invisible zip at the back makes it easy to slip on. 

We recommend a fabric with a little hold. Cotton poplin or satin will look great on this dress. For a country style, go for a linen blend or broderie anglaise (ours comes from Marché St-Pierre). You can also recycle your cotton sheets or your grandmother's curtains if you're into zero waste (Hello Scarlett). And why not make your future wedding dress in silk satin, layered with pretty plumetis or fine lace. The Lilibeth dress is lined throughout, but if your fabric isn't too sheer, you can double it up to the waist to save fabric. For the lining, opt for a lightweight cotton or acetate lining for colder seasons. You can heat-seal the front and back forms, or add a tri-fold if your fabric is openwork. 

To sew Lilibeth, you'll need :
-3m30 fabric in 140cm width,
-2m lining in 140cm width,
a little iron-on,
-1 invisible zipper, 45cm long.

-pattern only available here via subscription to Lemonade Couture Club.

See you next month with the pattern for the Liberty top, perfect for wearing after the beach!

June 23, 2023 — Laure Goussain
Comment coudre une robe Lourdes?

How to sew a Lourdes dress

Here's Lourdes, a dress that's a little bit Dolce Vita, a little bit mermaid in Capri, to put in your suitcase for vacation. Long but slit on both sides, it's fluid and close to the body thanks to its two darts on the back and front, while remaining comfortable. The little set of gathers at the bust, which form a slight heart shape, and on the straps are all small details. And to make it easy to put on, it conceals an invisible zip on the side.

To sew Lourdes, we chose a light viscose with a floral print from Coupons Saint-Pierre. We recommend a flowing fabric for a lovely fall. Viscose poplin, tencel or lyocell are also good choices, as is silk. Why not crepe or satin if you prefer polyester. If you prefer cotton, choose fine cotton with 2-3% elastane for added softness. To celebrate the warm weather, we recommend springtime patterns: Liberty, plumetis, gingham... we'll let you continue with the rhymes.

But it will also look great in full color, why not with organza straps? Is it also worth telling you that she'd make a magnificent ceremony dress by making her double-layered, with a plain layer and a layer of embroidered tulle on top? We recommend fusing (or triple-bonding) the straps on top, as well as the shirring.

To sew Lourdes, you'll need..:
-2m40 fabric in 140cm width or 2m50 fabric in 110cm width,
-a little fusible webbing,
-10cm of 5mm elastic,
-1 invisible 35cm-long zip,
Visit the step-by-step video here and the pattern by unit hereor in subscription here.

See you next month with THE dress, the one that heralds sunshine and vacations: the Lexie dress!

May 26, 2023 — Laure Goussain
Comment coudre une robe Karla?

How to sew a Karla dress

Introducing Karla, the dress that plays with transparency. Wear with a base dress, or why not over jeans and a T-shirt? Its straight cut and wide double sleeves keep it comfortable all day long. It's finished at the bottom with a wide gathered flounce that ends above the ankle. And surprise, Karla also comes with her own bottom dress/nuisette pattern. The triangle cup on the front and the bare back of the bottom contrast with the curves of the dress, not to mention that you can also adjust the adjustable straps to your heart's content!

For this model, we transformed a curtain veil (found on the top floor of Tissu Reine at Marché St Pierre) into a sublime wedding/celebration dress. But of course there are many other options. We We advise you to choose a fabric with a bit of hold that will make the ruffles swell, or to make it bi-material: fluid for the body and sleeves, and crisp for the bottom. Silk or polyester organza will do the trick. And why not choose one with a jacquard pattern or embroidery? This will bring a play of transparency. A pretty embroidered tulle, broderie anglaise or guipure-style lace is also worth a look, and you can have fun with the patterns, from polka dots to flowers... 

 

For the back of the dress, we've selected a 100% cotton linen voile (again from Tissu Reine) in tone-on-tone with the dress motif. Choose natural materials for summer (cotton or linen voile, cotton poplin), but if you want to make the most of the back of the dress and turn it into a babydoll, go for satin or lace! Choose a plain fabric if you've chosen a patterned fabric for the dress.

 

To sew Karla and her bottom part, you'll need :
-4m40 fabric in 140cm width for the dress,
-1m80 of 140cm fabric for the bottom of the dress,
-2 11mm-diameter rings and 2 rulers/buckles for bra adjustment,
-1m50 tone-on-tone bias binding,
-pattern only available here via subscription to Lemonade Couture Club.

And we'll be back next month with a pattern you've never seen before but are sure to love: the Lourdes dress!

 

April 28, 2023 — Laure Goussain
Comment coudre une jupe Gaïa?

How to sew a Gaïa skirt?

Introducing Gaïa, the reversible skirt that lets you change your style to suit your mood! With its identical front and back, and lined sides you can turn Gaïa inside out at any time. to change its color or pattern. Its pencil cut is very flattering, but it is wide enough at the bottom to allow to walk without hindrance. The knot to be tied on the front or back adds an original touch to your classic cut.

If you'd like to make Gaïa as a reversible model, you'll need to you'll need to choose 2 fabrics for this model. For our partwe found cotton poplin with 3% elastane at Marché Saint-Pierre. One with a red and white flower motif, and the other plain in the color of the flowers. We recommend that you choose a fabric fine enough for your to avoid excess thickness, but also choose two fabrics of the same weight, or at least as close to each other as possible (the best is to have two fabrics of the same weight). exactly the same quality of material on both sides). Take materials that don't move much, or that react in the same way on both sides. the same way. We recommend poplin or fine cotton gabardine, a polyester crêpe or polyester poplin. Avoid materials such as viscose, tencel, lyocell. You can also chambray or a cotton twill that's not too thick.

Have fun with patterns and and colors. You may well choose two patterns, remembering that the pattern worn "inside" will always be visible will always be visible on the front and in the loop bow. For a wiser look, cut the front and back of the skirt and back of the skirt in the same fabric, and add a pattern pattern only on the inside of the panels. For assertive reversible side, choose the pattern you like and a plain fabric in one of the pattern colors.

To sew Gaïa you'll need:
-2x1m30 fabric in 140cm width or 2x1m80 fabric in 110cm width,
-a little fusible webbing,
-20cm invisible zip,
-a pair of staples.
Watch the step-by-step video here and the pattern by unit hereor in subscription here.

A surprise awaits subscribers from April 28 in the subscription area, and we'll see you next month with the Lourdes dress you're sure to love!

April 24, 2023 — Laure Goussain
Comment coudre une robe Deniz ?

How to sew a Deniz dress

Introducing Deniz, the dress that will take you everywhere this summer, from beach outings to parties, cafés and markets... You can also wear it in cooler weather with boots, which look great with its two large front slits. Deniz's collar is finished with a teardrop neckline that breaks up its wise side, and decorated with piping and a button to close it. Wide enough to slip on without an opening system, Deniz is cinched with a belt that ties at the back for a very romantic touch. This pattern is accompanied by a second choice of sleeves for subscribers, in long and pagoda versions, which bring a very 70's feel to the cut, and are an even better accompaniment to a look. winter look!

We opted for a floral 100% polyester coupon from Coupons Saint-Pierre. To play with contrasts, we chose piping reminiscent of the pattern's flowers and a little heart-shaped button. 
For a summer look, we recommend choosing a flowing fabric. Viscose poplin, polyester or silk crepe would be ideal. And why not turn Deniz into a wedding dress with broderie anglaise or heavy lace? Or cut her from flowing satin or fine printed cotton. For winter, you can choose a slightly thicker fabric, but make sure it's not too stiff. Striking velvet works well, as does double crepe or viscose. Don't forget to iron the top of the collar so that it stays in place, and also the waistband (allow 50cm).

Deniz is a very versatile model! In the pattern you'll find three possible lengths. The shortest falls above the knee without a slit, the classic length just below the knee and the longest above the ankle! And for Lemonade Couture Club subscribers, you'll find a little 70's surprise in your personal space: sublime pagoda sleeves for a Woodstock festival feel. Now all you have to do is sew all the Deniz versions!

To sew Deniz (long version), you'll need :
-2m60 fabric in 140cm width,
-a little fusible webbing,
-1 11mm diameter button,
-1 m of piping,
-40cm bias.
If you wish to sew the pagoda sleeves, allow an additional 75cm.

 

Watch the video hereas well as the subscription pattern here or single sales here.

See you in April with the pattern for the Gaia skirt, aka the skirt of a thousand possibilities!

March 27, 2023 — Laure Goussain
Comment coudre une robe Jenna?

How to sew a Jenna dress?

Meet Jenna, the first surprise of the year, for Lemonade Couture Club subscribers! Jenna is the ruffled dress that will turn your head. Wear it casual with a pair of sneakers, or dress it up with your best party shoes. Its 5 ruffles and twirling sleeves give it a very light look. The rounded bias neckline is wide enough to slip on, and with its above-the-knee length, it's sure to show off your legs. Be warned, though, that patience will be your best ally on this sewing project, as you'll need to gather and hem all its little ruffles!

 To sew Jenna, we chose a crinkle polyester voile, which gives the material a "waffle" effect like mini pleats. If you're lucky enough to find a micro-pleat, it's sure to look great. Choose a light, fluid fabric rather than a cotton fabric that won't give the desired effect of ruffles. Depending on the transparency of your fabric, we recommend that you choose a lining for the sleeves and body, as we have done. To save fabric, we've also used lining instead of fabric for the parts hidden by the ruffles on the last three tiers of the bust.

This dress will require a lot of patience, so don't hesitate to make it over several days. Remember to bring new machine needles to avoid pulling threads, and if you have the opportunity to find one, a mini iron will also be a small plus to help you make the multiple muslin hems of this model. Ours is from Clover, but you'll find other brands on the Internet or in larger haberdashers.

To sew Jenna, you'll need:
-3m fabric in 140cm width,
-1m10 lining in 140cm width, or 1m40 if your fabric is transparent,
-80cm bias.

-pattern only available here via subscription to Lemonade Couture Club.

See you next month with the Deniz Dress pattern, perfect for waiting for sunny days!

February 28, 2023 — Laure Goussain
Comment coudre un top Crazy Judy ?

How to sew a Crazy Judy top?

Introducing Crazy Judy, a twirling blouse to add a touch of lightness to your wardrobe! Wear it with jeans for a casual look, or with a skirt, you'll be able to adapt it to any season. If you're accustomed to shirt cuffs and tear-resistant slits, this model has just the right amount of complexity to be very satisfying to make, without getting in over your head! The décolleté will show you off to your best advantage, and the flounce of the basque adds movement to the garment. 

 

For this model, we found a floral viscose poplin from Coupons Saint-Pierre, which we matched with small polyester blouse buttons (which we turned inside out to have the matte side visible), all in colors from the Forever Party collection. But the Crazy Judy model is also available in a wide range of materials. From the very wise white cotton poplin version, to the very fashionable if you choose an eye-catching fabric or a remarkable pattern. Cotonnades, métis (cotton/linen blend), thick satin or why not tulle for transparency? However, remember to fusible-bond high cuffs and cuffs for extra hold (allow 50cm). If you choose a sheer fabric, you'll need to iron the tri-fold, which you'll cut from a lining to match your fabric.


If you find the top a little too "crop top" for your taste, you can lengthen the bust, or add a few centimeters to the bottom of the bottom band. We strongly advise you to use a Japanese ruler for this, as the hem of the basque is curved! Of course, you can keep the top part and replace the basque with a skirt to create a very flowery dress (and to push the "little house on the prairie" aspect, why not cut it from old embroidered linen? ). 


To sew Crazy Judy you'll need : 
-2m fabric in 1m40 width or 2m50 if 1m10, always for the largest size,
-50cm fusible webbing,
-11 small buttons, 10 or 12mm in diameter.
Watch the step-by-step video here and the single pattern hereor in subscription here

For subscribers, you'll also get a surprise pattern on February 28 in your space. Otherwise, we'll be back at the end of March with the long-awaited Deniz dress pattern! 

February 24, 2023 — Laure Goussain
Comment coudre un pantalon Jacob?

How to sew Jacob pants?

Introducing Jacob, the pants that will give you a seventies look. Thanks to their flare look, they elongate your legs and remain very comfortable around the thighs. Their round-edged patch pockets are sure to remind you of the Rio jeans from which they were directly inspired. The front fly makes it easy to slip on, and the waistband with belt loops gives it a denim look. Have fun with the finishing touches, choosing colored cord thread for the topstitching or a fancy button.

For this model, we've chosen a stretch denim fabric with 4% elastane to maintain the comfort of denim. If you want to wear the Jacob pants in winter, you can opt for a cotton gabardine if you like color. For a more summery look, these pants will be perfect in summer in a lighter fabric, choose a washed linen or cotton-blend. As we've done, have fun with contrasting thread colors to stitch the topstitching. Finally, if you'd like to embroider the pockets, you can follow the steps below.

Here are the steps for embroidering the Jacob pants. We'll look at how to make a straight stitch and a chain stitch. You'll need..:
-A needle,
-embroidery thread,
-Embroidery drum,
-A pair of scissors,
-Embroidery design template download hereor your own design!
Let's start by embroidering the leaves, stem and petals in a straight stitch.

 

1- Place the needle on the wrong side of the fabric so that the knot is hidden. The needle should come out on the right side of the fabric.
2-Place the needle again, following the line 3mm back from the previous stitch.
3-Pull the needle straight out 6mm forward, following the embroidery line.
4-Tension the thread, taking care not to distort the fabric.
Repeat the operation along the entire embroidery line. Once you've made your straight stitch, you should end up with a stitch succession similar to a straight stitch on a sewing machine. To finalize the stitch, insert the needle one last time and make a knot on the back of the fabric. Cut the thread.
Now we'll make the heart of the flower with a chain stitch:
1-Place the needle on the wrong side of the fabric so that the knot is hidden. The needle should come out on the right side of the fabric.
2-Place the needle in the same place as last time and hold the loop of thread in your fingers. It must not escape onto the wrong side of the fabric!
3-Pull the needle 3mm forward, following the embroidery line. Pass the needle over the loop of fabric you've been holding.
4-Tension the thread, taking care not to distort the fabric.
Repeat the operation on the rest of the layout, inserting the needle in the same place as last time. Once your chain stitch is complete, you should end up with a succession of loops held in place by the next one. To finalize the stitch, insert the needle in the same place as before, passing the thread over the last loop. Tie a knot on the wrong side of the fabric and cut the thread. With a little TA-DA patience, you've finished embroidering the Jacob pants!
To sew Jacob, you'll need:
-2m40 of 140cm wide fabric for the largest size, or 2m40 of 110cm wide fabric,
-a little fusible webbing,
-1 button 20mm in diameter,
-1 zip 20cm long.
You'll find the tutorial video here and the pattern here in pdf or by subscriptionSee you next month with the pattern for a brand new model, the Crazy Judy top!
Text by Nina Peronnard
January 20, 2023 — Laure Goussain