Couture news

Introducing Cindy, the little surprise exclusively for pdf subscribers! This double-breasted wrap top is the perfect way to start the day off on the right foot, without having to worry in the morning. Simple on the outside, it's got a few pretty details like cuff gathers and batwing sleeves, and best of all, it's easy to adapt. Coordinate it with a skirt like Anaëlle for a Mad Men spirit, or wide-leg pants for a 70's feel, and it's sure to find a place in your wardrobe.

Because the sleeves are an extension of the bust, we recommend a supple fabric for pretty pleats. Avoid materials that are too puffy or crisp. Veils and fine poplins are still good choices (we chose our Grandes Fraises viscose poplin to coordinate with the Anaëlle skirt), but you can also opt for gauze, seersucker, flannel or broderie anglaise... Or why not organza (yes, it's a crunchy material, but the transparency makes up for it) or embroidered tulle!

To make Cindy, you'll need :
-1.50m fabric in 1.40m width,
-fusible webbing,
-4 buttons, 10mm diameter,
-2 18mm-diameter buttons,
-elastic thread,
optional: hand-sewn snap.

Choose pretty buttons, don't hesitate to try on the model before embroidering the buttonholes and sewing on the buttons for the best fit, and if you want to close the neckline, sew on a little snap by hand!
To subscribe, go to here !

Happy sewing!

Introducing Destiny, a blouse that won't let you down with its ruffles, smocks, puffed sleeves and little gathered collar. Yes, that's it. And even if the first few steps take a long, long time to complete, the rest is pretty easy and the result will be so satisfying you'll forget the time you spent on the smocking lines! And if you've thought to allow a little extra time and fabric, add a skirt with an elasticated waistband and hey presto! You've got a gorgeous dress!

When choosing fabric, make sure it's sturdy enough to withstand the countless lines of smocking. Avoid fabrics that are too loosely woven; to do this, take your fabric in each hand between thumb and forefinger, and pull gently but firmly as if you were testing elasticity. If the fabric buckles under your thumbs, or the space between the warp threads becomes very visible, the fabric will not be able to support the smocks.

To make Destiny, you'll need :
-2m fabric in 1.40m width,
-1 button 10 or 12mm in diameter,
-20cm bias tape,
-elastic smocking thread.

We'd still advise you to start with a light, slightly transparent material. You'll find our recommendations in the booklet. the video is also here to help you! Find the pattern here.

For pdf subscribers, we'll be back tomorrow with a little bonus, the Cindy blouse, which will be a pdf exclusive, without video, but still with the booklet and patterns in A4/US letter and A0, graded from size 34 to 48.

Happy sewing! 

Introducing Anaëlle, the very va-va-voom skirt without looking like it! Close-fitting yet comfortable with its semi-elasticated waistband, it exposes your legs as soon as you start moving, thanks to its portfolio panel on the front. Little darts hide on the front and back for shaping, and pockets dress up the skirt while making it practical!

This model is available in our strawberry stretch cotton gabardine. here but in general for this skirt, we strongly recommend a fabric with at least 2% elastane. We usually prefer gabardine or cotton-blend poplin, but there's nothing to stop you choosing a milano (which is a knit), ottoman, satin-leather, faux suede/suede, denim canvas or corduroy or milleraies. If you're not going for an elastic fabric, we recommend making a canvas to check whether you need to widen at the hips (and we do the test sitting down, not standing up! ).
For the elasticated part, you can use 3, 4 or 5cm wide elastic, depending on the color you want. Be sure to follow the instructions on the pattern for length by size. And last but not least, you can readjust at the hips or shorten the skirt if you like!

To make Anaëlle, you'll need :

-1m35 fabric in 140cm width or 1m55 fabric in 110cm width,
-30cm fusible webbing,
-1 invisible 18cm-long zip,
-a trouser hook (or a button, or a hand-sewn hook if you prefer),
-3, 4 or 5cm wide elastic (for length, check pattern).

Video available here and the booklet here !
Happy sewing!

Here's Noah, the very easy blouse to make if you're already used to tear-resistant slits! And if you're not, she's a great pattern to practice with! Quick to make, it's sure to become part of your wardrobe ein a snap. Its gathers at the neckline, shoulders and sleeves make it romantic and add volume, while its high, buttoned cuffs add a delicate touch and its stand-up collar highlights your neck.

The fabric is our Gianni viscose from last November's collection. And by the way, you can find our new fabric coupons here here ! 
Por this model, we recommend a flowing fabric: feel free to play around with crisp poplin or organza for transparency. For a more wintry feel, opt for satin or fine velvet. Otherwise, twill remains a great base. Play with stripes and patterns, or choose beautiful buttons on a solid color. For buttons, we recommend 14mm in diameter, and count on 8. For a truly vintage feel, don't hesitate to apply braids or lace ribbon to the neckline and cuff seams!

To make Noah you'll need :
-2.1m fabric in 1.40m width,
-8 buttons 14mm in diameter.

Explanatory video available here. For the booklet and pattern, go to here. 

Happy sewing!

After we'd finished sewing the Aldo dungarees, we were left with fabric scraps - you know the ones we're talking about: those that aren't big enough to make a new project, often in long strips, or with oddly shaped holes... After a bit of brainstorming, we thought we'd come up with a little end-of-year bonus pattern to showcase these scraps of fabric that so often end up in the garbage can. 

Naturally, we've included a version with the scraps wedged between two pieces of vinyl, but if your scraps are big enough, you can make your own:
-make a patchwork with different pieces of fabric (start with geometric shapes or 5cm x 5cm squares),
-make the bag entirely from fabric (remember to iron it on for best results),
-or skip the fabric and make it entirely in vinyl.

A few tips for the vinyl: make sure it's a bit thick, around 500gr/m2 for a good thickness, and don't forget to set a wide stitch (5) and don't use bartacks. Use a new sewing machine needle, leather or denim, or a normal 80/90. For areas that will be under tension (loops), don't hesitate to use glue for reinforcement. You can also change the finish, add bias binding around the edges, omit the quilting, omit the loops and turn the bag into a pouch, add pockets inside... For the handle, you can find very pretty acrylic chains, or re-use the chain from an old bag.

To make Ninou, you'll need :
-0.4m vinyl in 1.30m width,
-fabric scraps from previous projects (feel free to mix colors),
-2 snap hooks or buckles,
-a handbag chain or handle,
-a 25cm x 7.5cm rectangle in very rigid thermo or cardboard for the bottom of the bag,
-bag runners and a bag fastener.

The pattern is only available in the pdf subscription area. here. We can't wait to see your creations, and we wish you many beautiful sewing projects for the end of the year!

Introducing Aldo, the dungarees that combine perfect pants with a wide-strap top. High-waisted, the pants section is flattering with a cutout in the middle of the leg. You'll have 2 Italian pockets on the front and 2 patch pockets on the back to carry your whole life. And don't worry about the straps: they're adjustable in the back for maximum comfort.

We chose a wool-touch polyester for winter, with a big check like we love them. This one comes from Moline. But you can also go for a denim fabric with contrasting stitching for a blue-workwear look, or a nice chintzy fabric for a jumpsuit to wear on special occasions. However, we'd advise you to pay close attention to the thickness of your fabric, especially around the straps, and if it's too thick, consider lining the inside of the cups and straps with lining. As for topstitching, it's up to you - it's completely optional!

 
To make Aldo, you'll need :
-2.8m fabric in 1.40m width or 3m70m in 1.10m width,
-1 18cm trouser zip,
hand-sewn snap,
-2 sets of rectangular adjustable buckles.

Watch the detailed video here and the pattern here.
Take a look at our website! You'll find great gift ideas for the festive season, our latest patterns and our Bohin x Make My Lemonade sewing box. 

We hope you enjoy your sewing session and hope to see you soon!

Introducing Bao, a fitted dress ideal for both small and large occasions, with front and back cut-outs to flatter the figure. A little low-cut in the back, but not too much, it keeps the bra strap hidden. As for the slit at the back of the skirt, it preserves amplitude of movement when walking. And you can easily adapt it to a shorter version!

To keep it close to the body, we've exceptionally made the seams smaller, with different values on the right and left of the dress to accommodate the large invisible zip hidden in the side seam. This will be the only slight difficulty with this model, but with a little patience, you'll get the hang of it! With the help of the video here and the booklet, you'll have all the tips you need.

For the fabric, there are many choices, from stiff jacquard like ours (this is a coupon we were offered at the very, very beginning of Make My Lemonade, thank you Marion! ) to light cotton plumetis or airy lace for summer, we just ask you to pay attention to the sleeves, which are close to the body. Do a canvas test before cutting the fabric. If this doesn't work, you have two options:
-widen the pattern slightly at the biceps and elbow (remember to try with your arm bent! ),
-or, if your fabric is a little elastic, you can cut the sleeves on the bias instead of the straight thread!

To sew Bao, you'll need :
-2.3m fabric in 1.40m width or 3m30m in 1.10m width,
-2m bias tape,
-1 invisible 50cm zip,
-1m lining in 1.40m.

Happy sewing!

Getting started in sewing requires a bit of organization, especially when you're just starting out, and even if you want to go fast to finish your project (we understand), don't fall into the trap of scrupulously following the steps for taking measurements and preparing the fabric before you start working on your garment, and remember to allow for an extra day of sewing to get a perfect result and finishes that will make you proud.

Taking measurements :
This is an essential step. Don't hesitate to keep a notebook with your measurements, which you'll take a few times a year to keep track of your body's fluctuations. Take your measurements undressed, in your underwear. If you're used to having a beloved bra, put it on! Remember to breathe before each measurement and don't cheat. Yes, sometimes it's not the waist or hip measurement you're looking for, but be indulgent with your body - it's alive and kicking, and your clothes need to be comfortable!
Chest circumference, waist circumference and hip circumference are the ABC measurements, and over time you'll be able to complete your measurements with lengths (e.g. bust and leg) or other circumferences (e.g. thighs, arms) and fit your clothes better and better.
We advise you to take a fairly sturdy tape measure, avoiding those made entirely of plastic, and if you like to vary the pattern marks, you can find some with one side marked in centimetres and the other in inches, very practical!
A final word of advice: tape measure materials are sensitive to heat, so don't leave them lying around near your iron, as they may warp and distort.

Choosing the right cut and fabric:
With experience, sewing your own clothes allows you to really tailor them, but don't forget to anticipate how your body reacts and how the fabric moves. Likewise, you'll find that some cuts suit you better than others. You have to know how to combine all these elements to get an impeccable cut, and even so, there are bound to be a few failures when you're just starting out (the fabric is puffier than anticipated, or it's very soft and starts to poach, or it reacts badly to washing or ironing...). ) . Don't hesitate to keep notes on the fabrics you like to work with and how they react to you.
A few tips: for high-waisted pants in a fabric that's a bit stiff and thick, and if you tend to have a bit of a swollen belly after a meal, remember to add a little margin between the waist and hip circumferences. For skirts and dresses, even if you like them close to the body, don't forget to be comfortable in the thighs and hips, especially when sitting down, to avoid cracking the seams. Allow for a centimetre of comfort, or shift the button on your shirts slightly at chest level, so that the button placket doesn't spread when you breathe. If you know that your body often changes morphology according to stress or the seasons, make seam allowances of 2cm or 2.5cm instead of 1cm, so you can easily shrink or expand. And don't forget: overlock open seams rather than lying ones, to make disassembly easier! 

Take your time and organize your schedule:
Sometimes you have to accept going a little slower to take the time to get things right. For a simple project, allow at least two days. One day to anticipate your finishing touches, check your supplies, prepare your fabric and cut it.
Then a day dedicated to sewing machine assembly and any hand finishing. 
To this, you must also add the hours spent assembling the pattern if you download it as a pdf, as well as copying it onto kraft paper. This copying step is not compulsory, but it allows you to keep your basic pattern intact and reuse it later, which is very useful if you need to sew for yourself in a different size or for another person. Likewise, your pattern will be easier to read if you need to modify it (to lengthen the legs or add a little margin).

Materials:
Good equipment will save you a lot of time, but we understand that sewing requires space and a budget.
From the outset, think about what you want to sew: garments, accessories, household linen? What are your favorite materials? If you're mainly working on simple cotton pieces, a good pair of scissors and erasable pens or pencils will be more than enough. Would you like to try your hand at delicate materials? Maybe it's time to invest in a rotary cutter, fine pins and a serger. Do you work with soft or fluffy materials? Weights and chalk are a must. Don't hesitate to ask for advice from friends and family who sew, or in the store. Lend your materials to others to test before you buy, to avoid cluttering up your sewing box unnecessarily. And even if it requires a small investment, some items are worth the price tag for fewer hassles: a good sewing machine, pins, needles and scissors are the most common examples.

Lexicon and techniques :
Depending on the pattern brand, the lexicon may differ slightly, but remains essentially the same. The Internet is full of information if you're in doubt, and you'll easily find synonyms and translations. We've included a mini-lexicon at the end of the pattern booklet for the most basic terms, but you can also find specialized books if you need them.
As for techniques, they are very personal and depend on your sewing projects. You've probably seen family members using this or that way of knotting a thread, pointing a marking, sewing a button or cutting fabric, and that's fine! Everyone has their own way of doing things, and it's important to pass on this knowledge to others, so that you too can develop the habits that suit you best.
However, we can only encourage you to hunt out books at flea markets and garage sales, as they provide a wealth of know-how on hand-sewing techniques and finishing touches that are sometimes forgotten, yet can give you a result that's close to haute couture. Don't hesitate to try them out outside a sewing session, on scraps of fabric, to see what difficulties might arise, learn to repeat gestures and imagine adaptations to be made according to patterns and fabrics.
And our final piece of advice for the road: although we call them "finishing touches", they are the guarantee of a fine piece of work and should be anticipated as far in advance as possible. So take time to think about them before you cut your pattern and fabric!

You'll find the full video here and see you soon for the Bao dress tuto.

Introducing Noé, the pants you've been raving about for the past few collections. What's the difference with our previous trouser patterns? These pants can be worn a little low-waisted (between the waist and the hips) or high-waisted, depending on the size you're going to cut: exactly to your measurements or a little larger. The leg is slightly narrowed at the bottom for a carrot look, with a cut reminiscent of the 60s for an androgynous look. The play of topstitched pleats adds pretty details, and even the finishing touches are meticulous, with a bias finish on the inside of the waistband. 

With winter in mind, we made it in a fine herringbone-patterned suit wool mixed with cashmere, found in a boutique in the Sentier district. The wool lends itself really well to the model, but you could also go for a thick viscose or a linen/cotton blend for a riviera feel, or even a silk jacquard!

To sew Noé, you'll need :

-2.3m of fabric in 1.40m width or 2.5m in 1.10m width,
-1m bias tape,
-1 20cm pants zipper,
-1 20mm-diameter button,

And watch the video here.

Happy sewing!

Introducing Ramona, the dungarees that reflect back-to-school resolutions: to stretch your hands, find ideas for projects put on hold over the summer, and keep learning every day. With its multiple pockets for all your daily tools and its relatively classic cut, it remains a variation on overalls. Of course, it can be made in the craziest fabrics, with patterns, jacquard or two-tone, and is a real canvas for your inspiration.

We've made a denim version with denim topstitching and snaps, but there's nothing to stop you from making it with fine topstitching and classic buttons. And if you want to save fabric or go for a more minimalist look, you can skip the adjustable straps and cut them straight to length, so there's no need for buckles! And for summer, shorten the legs to get Ramonita!

Far less complicated than Vladimir, you'll need less time, fabric and supplies to make to make Ramona. You'll need :

-2.50m fabric in 1.40m width or 3m fabric in 1.10m width,
-6 buttons, 18mm diameter,
-2 set of 40mm dungaree loops,
-50cm fusible web if required.

To guide you, you can watch the Ramona dungarees video. here.

Happy sewing!

Introducing Vladimir, the ideal project for transitioning from the last days of summer to the first days of autumn, preparing for back-to-school with a new uniform and putting into practice all the sewing knowledge you've accumulated over the last few months! Comfortable, practical with its two breast pockets and two Italian pockets, elegant with its rider collar, it borrows its cuffs from classic shirts. It's a bit of a time-consuming project, requiring two days of sewing for the fastest, but you'll be proud when you're done!

As Vladimir is a complicated piece, we advise you to go step by step: allow a day for cutting the fabric, a day for assembling the top, another for the bottom, and take your time with the finishing touches. Don't rush, take it slow, and you'll end up with a real gem. If you're making it for the 1st time, make life easier for yourself by choosing a supple but slightly thick fabric (double crepe is a bit of a must), preferably plain or with a very small pattern, to avoid the hassle of joining.

Technical skills aside, to make Vladimir, you'll need :

-3.40m of fabric in 1.40m width,
-11 buttons 20mm in diameter,
-1 zip 18cm long,
-50cm of 5cm wide elastic,
-1m fusible webbing.

And we recommend you watch the video here for even more convenience!

Happy sewing!

Introducing Victor, the pattern of the month for July, a summer wardrobe staple in a slightly more complex version than our previous shorts. Indeed, Victor is a set of details that make all the difference: piped pockets, pleats on the front that trap shirring, an elasticated back waistband with a strip of pleats, bias binding on the finish... In short, an ideal pattern when you want to test your skills!

But apart from all that, Victor is a pair of shorts that are not only pleasant to wear, but practical and flattering. You can add a detachable waistband if you'd like to make them more fitted, or even play with the length to make them mini shorts or pants!

To sew Victor, you'll need :

-2m30 fabric in 1.40m width, or 2m40 fabric in 1.10m width,
-3cm wide elastic, 
-1 zip 18cm long, 
-1m fusible webbing, 
-50cm bias binding,
-1 20mm-diameter button. 

And watch the video here.

And along with Victor, you'll also find the 2nd tips video this time on sewing machines!

We wish you a wonderful summer and a great sewing session!