Couture news

Introducing Penny, the tight-fitting, mermaid-like dress for day and night. With its straps and under-bust cut-out, it'll keep your bust in place in any situation. Zipped at the back for added comfort, it's also slit at the bottom of the skirt for easy walking.

We advise you to choose a jersey for this model, which requires a lot of elasticity (at least 35%). You can use a polyester base or choose a natural material with 5% elastane or lycra. You'll also need a tone-on-tone lining. For this, pay attention to the weight of the outer fabric you choose, and adjust the thickness of the lining accordingly. If in doubt, choose a lightweight jersey like those used for T-shirts, around 120gr/m2. As the pattern is so simple, you can turn Penny into the essential little black dress in your closet, or make it in any color or pattern you like. With a little patience and fine-tuning, you can add the sleeves of a Bao dress, or why not a ruffle on the bottom of the skirt for a Falbala-esque touch.

You'll need :
-1m70 fabric in 140cm width or 2m70 fabric in 110cm width,
-1m20 lining in 140cm width or 1m70 lining in 110cm width,
-1 invisible 35cm zip,
-1 pair of hooks.

Watch the video tutorial step-by-step herethe pattern to buy here.

Here's Monica, the combination (no pun intended) of everything you could want for summer: bare shoulders, a twirling flounce for the sleeves, a close-fitting cut to support the bust, pants with flattering lines that elongate the legs and keep two pockets on the back for carrying your postcards. What more could you ask for?

To sew Monica, we recommend a fabric with 2-3% stretch for greater comfort, even if 100% cotton is perfectly suitable, but offers less flexibility of movement. For a 70's spirit, go for chambray for a denim look, but not too denim. A double gauze for midsummer days (be careful to iron the flounce), a slightly thick satin for a chic look, a double crepe, or any textured fabric will be preferable.

Of course, big floral patterns are a must. On the other hand, we don't recommend any fabric that's likely to poach: viscose, tencel, lyocell are to be avoided. For our part, we took the opportunity to sew the Monica in 2 coupons of our sublime pink Daisy cotton canvas, enough to celebrate the arrival of fine weather!

Watch the video tutorial step-by-step herethe pattern to buy here.

Introducing Jenny, the tiered dress with ruffles, perfect for flying and twirling. Easy to put on, it has just one opening in the back with a strap and a button. Its multiple gathered bands hide pockets on the sides, and its sleeves, which can be worn 7/8th or rolled up below the elbow, are elasticated at the wrist for added comfort. 

With its many ruffles, Jenny requires a lot of fabric and patience. That's why we advise you to choose a fabric within your budget, but also according to your abilities. Although she's not difficult, for starters we'd advise you to choose a fabric that doesn't slip too much, such as a soft cotton or viscose poplin or twill. If you're afraid of the chewing-gum effect of viscose, you can starch the fabric between steps to stiffen it a little and make it easier to pass under the sewing machine. 

If, on the other hand, you have the experience of many patterns behind you, take the opportunity to make this dress even more memorable by adding extra layers of ruffles, or by choosing a fancier material: a little transparency with organza, plumetis or lace, or a play of gradations of patterns or colors by playing on the scale of the print. For the latter, since panels are sometimes cut at 90°, remember to choose a pattern that can be read from all directions.

You'll need :

-3m80 for the largest size in a 140cm wide fabric,
-a little 5mm elastic,
-1 button 9 to 15mm wide for neck closure.

Visit the step-by-step video tutorial herethe pattern to buy here.

You'll need :
-2m fabric in 140cm width or 2m60 fabric in 110cm width,
-1m40 lining in 140cm width or 1m90 lining in 110cm width,
-3m piping,
-a little fusible webbing,
-3 buttons 18 to 25mm in diameter.

Introducing Nina, the fashionable MOD mini-skirt with a colorful wave on the front that emphasizes its vintage feel. With contrasting piping, it's a quick, easy-to-make piece that's sure to make an effortless impact! Simple in cut, it conceals an invisible side zip, and on the back there's a small pocket for essentials. Lined for year-round comfort.

We recommend a fabric with a little hold, but not too thick, to avoid bulging at the wave cut. A suiting wool is a very good choice for winter, but you can also opt for a light gabardine or fine denim. Other recommendations include a toile de Jouy, a jacquard, a flat velvet, an ottoman or a slightly thick cotton/linen blend. For our part, we found a 3-meter cut of costume wool at Etoffes du Sentier, perfect for making the Fantine skirt and jacket that will arrive next month.

Don't forget to thermobond the wrong side of the waistband pieces for greater stability. You'll also need 1m of lining (classic or satin). And for supplies, you'll need 0.7m of piping or bias if you prefer (note that bias is more difficult to assemble). And don't forget a 22cm invisible zip.

There are no particular difficulties for this model, and if you have a good level you'll finish it in an afternoon, including fabric cutting. It's still a good base for a slightly longer version (above the knee), or by playing around with the cut. You can also make it two-tone if you like, or play with plain and patterned parts.

 To sew Nina, you'll need :
-1m10 of fabric in 140cm width or 1m30 in 110cm width,
-1m lining in 140cm width or 1m in 110cm width,
-a little fusible webbing for the waistband,
-70cm of piping or bias,
-1 invisible 22cm zip.

Watch the video tutorial on Youtube hereClick here to buy the pattern individually here or take the opportunity to subscribe to the Lemonade Couture Club.
Next month you'll find the Fantine jacket tutorial to make a coordinated ensemble.

Introducing Ali, a wardrobe staple that can be endlessly adapted to add a touch of color and warmth to your outfit! Reversible if you like, it's a snap to make once you've mastered the bias technique. Simple all-fabric, you can decorate it with brandebourgs, fancy hooks or one or more ribbons to close it at the front.

As this model is reversible, you can indulge yourself by choosing two different materials. If you want to quilt the model, be careful not to choose a material that's too slippery for both sides. We recommend a pretty printed cotton poplin, satin, coat wool, velvet (flat or corduroy), or even suede and faux fur if your machine allows it! You can also use a little wadding for quilting, in the same quantity as your fabric. If your fabric is too soft, you can also iron it on the reverse side if required. For supplies, you'll also need 20mm wide bias binding. If you want to close the vest with ribbon, use grosgrain, satin or even velvet ribbon in the width you prefer.

We've chosen a cotton twill with a fancy flower motif for the front of the vest, and a wool sheet for the back, guaranteeing a warm winter! With a little patience, you can make the bias yourself. Just be careful not to use too thick a material, and iron it on if it's too soft. For the final touch, the vest closes at the front with a large velvet bow.

To sew Ali, you'll need :
-0.6m fabric in 140cm width or 1.2m fabric in 110cm width,
-0.6m lining in 140cm width or 1.2m lining in 110cm width,
-4m10 of 20mm wide bias tape,
-fusible webbing if required,
-wadding if required,
-Optional: 1m20 ribbon of your choice.

Find Ali's pattern only in the subscription Lemonade Couture Club subscription here.

Here's Marlow, a perfect mix of the top of our Marla dress, the bottom of our Monica jumpsuit for endless legs, and a shawl collar - after all, why not? Ideal for big (and small) occasions, it can be worn in a formal or casual version, depending on the fabric. Easy to slip on, it retains the wallet opening on the bust and a buttoned placket on the side of the pants.

For the material, you can opt for a pretty plain or printed fabric and make the "lining" part of the bust in satin to recall the tuxedo look. Choose a flowing material, with varying degrees of thickness. Crepe is ideal, but there's nothing to stop you opting for a light gabardine or viscose poplin. For a more casual look, light chambray or denim will look like overalls. If, on the other hand, you're planning to wear it as a suit, try a cold wool. As always, because of its fabric consumption, we advise against patterns that require seams or that don't turn.

In addition to fabric, you'll also need fusible webbing for the collar and cuffs. Don't forget the buttons for the trouser placket and cuffs: you'll need 7, 10 to 12mm in diameter. You can also replace them with snaps if you like (why not use mother-of-pearl on denim). If you'd like to use Marla et Loulou's elasticated back technique, you can also add a 5mm wide elastic in the back bust seam.

We chose a viscose poplin with a fancy pattern for a head-to-toe floral look! A discreet and elegant touch with little covered buttons on the cuffs and buttoning of the pants.

To sew Marlow, you'll need..: 
-3m70 fabric in 140cm width,
-70cm of fabric or lining for the front bust,
-7 buttons, 10 to 12mm,
-50cm fusible web,
-Optional: 5mm wide elastic.

Visit the video tutorial on Youtube here, the pattern to buy individually here or take the opportunity to subscribe to the Lemonade Couture Club.

Here's Loulou/Marla, the dress you can sew in different lengths and with different sleeves. Marla with a romantic puffed sleeve, closed by a long buttoned cuff, or Loulou with butterfly sleeves. Its wallet fastening with ties allows it to be adjusted to her waist size, although we've hidden an elastic band in the back for added comfort. It also has hidden pockets in the side seams and a skirt that's just a little full to give movement with every step.

For this reason, we recommend choosing a fluid fabric to avoid puffy sleeves and unsightly pleats on the skirt. We've chosen a viscose poplin, but for something a little more fancy, you could opt for a light velvet, jacquard, cupro or why not a sequinned fabric for a festive result? If you choose a patterned fabric, don't make the same mistake as we did, and check that your fabric has a rotating pattern, as this will enable you to place pieces head to tail and limit consumption. 

For supplies, you'll need bias binding to finish the neckline. You have two options. You can choose a ready-made bias (they're usually 20mm wide), which you'll then need to stitch straddling the edge of the neckline before laying it down towards the wrong side of the fabric. As a second option, allow an extra 50cm of fabric and make an infinite bias. You can easily find tutorials on the Internet, or if you're a subscriber, you'll find explanations here. It's all about starting with a square of fabric to make several meters of bias. To help you, we recommend investing in a bias toolYou can find them in different widths to vary the finish. The result will be much more delicate.

This dress is not particularly difficult, even if the long-sleeved Marla version takes a little longer to make than the Loulou version. The bias binding will be the most tedious part, but the result is well worth the effort. If you want to be able to adapt this model to all seasons, don't hesitate to play with the length of the skirt, in a short version (above the knee) or in an almost midi length. 

To sew Loulou-Marla, you'll need :
-3m30 of fabric in 140cm width for the long version, or 40cm less for the short version,
-5mm elastic the equivalent of your 1/2 waist + 2cm,
-3m of 20mm wide bias tape,
a little iron-on for Marla's cuffs,
6 buttons 8-12mm diameter for Marla.

Visit the video tutorial on Youtube herethe pattern in individual purchase here or take the opportunity to subscribe to the Lemonade Couture Club.

Introducing Léonie, the extravagant yet extra-easy blouse. Fleur bleue, she'll make you feel like you're in a Jane Austen novel. With its puffed sleeves ending in an elasticated cuff, it's very comfortable, and on the front it's decorated with a tie to be tied on the chest. 

We opted for a viscose coupon with a jacquard to give the fabric a little relief, in a bright pink color to brighten up winter days. But this model will remain a very good base for a white blouse, in cotton poplin, all kinds of cotton, broderie anglaise and why not an embroidered brocante bed sheet? For a dressier look, opt for a fabric with a bit of sheen: viscose jacquard, satin or patterned polyester. For a natural look, a linen version is perfect. And if you want to lighten it up for summer, remove the sleeves! Once you've made it, chances are it'll become a staple in your closet, ready to be adapted in a multitude of ways.

For the tie, you can choose a lace ribbon, grosgrain or velvet, or even if you don't like the lace-up look of the neckline, skip the buttonholes on the placket.

To sew Léonie, you'll need :
-2m fabric in 140cm width or 2m80 fabric in 110cm width,
-3cm wide elastic (2x your wrist circumference +6cm)
-a little fusible webbing,
1m of 7mm-wide ribbon.

Find Léonie's pattern only in the subscription. Lemonade Couture Club subscription here.

Introducing Nicole, the adorable coat to keep you warm. With its trapeze cut and pagoda sleeves, it's reminiscent of 60s England and Moonrise Kingdom. Its small collar and row of buttons give it a simple silhouette. In the back, the box pleat adds movement. Of course, it's lined, but it also has welt pockets on the front. Of course, you can play around with the length or material to make a lighter jacket version.

For this project, we advise you to choose a fabric that's easy to work with, especially if you're not used to welt pockets. You can choose a loden-type boiled wool or a flat wool-blend for coats, a velvet or a thick gabardine. Depending on your budget, you may choose a wool blend (angora, cashmere, wool, alpaca) or a wool minority with a majority of acrylic or polyester. If you're more dexterous, you can also opt for a slightly fleecy fabric, or make certain parts out of fleece, like the collar! For our part, we found a wool angora, wool and polyamide coupon that had a slight medium-short pile at Sacré Coupons.

For the lining, make sure it's slippery and of good quality to keep your coat in place for a long time. A thick lining in polyester, acetate or even cotton satin is a good choice. Take the opportunity to choose a patterned lining if you're making a coat with a plain exterior! Otherwise, you can opt for a cotton lining if you're not too comfortable with the washing machine. Don't forget to include buttons, simple or extravagant, to highlight the model's pretty trapeze cut.

To sew Nicole, you'll need
-2m70 of fabric in 140cm width or 3m50 in 110cm width,
-2m30 lining in 140cm width or 2m60 in 110cm width,
-a pair of shoulder pads,
-a pair of cigarettes,
a little iron-on,
-5 25mm buttons.

Find the pdf pattern for individual purchase hereor as a subscription hereand for video step-by-step, click here !

And if you have access to the subscription, you'll find this month's bonus model of the Léonie blouse. 

Introducing Maali, the mid-season jacket for all your outfits. With its ribbed cuffs and hem, it looks like a college bomber, but it all depends on the fabric you choose. Lined for a beautiful finish and with piped pockets, it'll keep you and your hands warm. You can decorate the front with patches and embroidery, or make it two-tone or two-material. Take your time with this piece, it's well worth it.

Admittedly a little difficult, it will be a 2/3-day project, depending on the time you have, and we recommend that you have already sewn a lined jacket, with or without piping, for ease of use. Otherwise, don't hesitate to watch the video several times, but also to review the tutorials for the Uma coats, the Sissi jacket or the Hendriks trench coat to help you! 

For a little autumnal flair, we've chosen a fabric and lining in the same tones as the collection, with a wool-blend fabric from Sacrés-Coupons. However, you can opt for flatter, lighter materials if you're considering Maali as a spring jacket! Denim or corduroy would be perfect. Otherwise, opt for a moumoute-type fabric or a boiled or flat wool to beat the cold. A cotton twill would also be great for a first jacket. 

To sew Maali, you'll need :
-1m80 of 140cm fabric or 2m40 of 110cm fabric,
-1m50 lining in 140cm width or 2m10 lining in 110cm width,
-a little fusible webbing,
-ribbing,
-8 buttons or 20mm snaps.

Visit the pdf pattern for individual purchase here or as a subscription hereand to guide you step by step, you will find the video here !

Here's Liberté, a model that comes in 3 versions: crop top, tunic or dress, depending on your desires! With two patch pockets and a shirt collar above a V-neckline, it looks a little like a vareuse. However, its pagoda sleeves give it a groovy '70s feel.

Of course, given the simplicity of the model, there's nothing to stop you from exploring very different styles, from the couture wedding dress by extending it to the feet in silk faille, or on the contrary by splitting it all the way down the front to transform it into a jacket in extravagant brocade or velvet panne, and even a mini-dress version in psychedelic Woodstock festival-style fabric - all materials lend themselves to this model. You can remove or move the pockets, or shorten the sleeves. And if you want a total look with crop-tops and pants, choose a model like the Kevin or the Harya. 

To sew Liberté, you'll need (for the largest size):
- 1.70m in 140cm for the crop-top version,
- or 2m in 140cm for the tunic version,
- or 2.10m in 140cm for the dress version,
- a little fusible web for the collar.

Visit the pdf pattern for individual purchase hereor as a subscription hereand for video step-by-step, click here !