Last time, we gave you a few tips on how to prepare your fabric, and this time we're tackling the thorny subject of the sewing machine. Indispensable but sometimes temperamental, the sewing machine can be frightening and off-putting for beginners. However, with the right gestures and, above all, practice, you'll see that it's not difficult to understand your machine and that, with time, you'll come to know every one of its noises by heart. You'll find the video dedicated to this subject here

The biggest question is choosing the right machine. The difference in prices and brands can make you lose your head, but here's our advice. There are 2 main categories of machine: electronic and mechanical. Here are the pros and cons:

Electronic machines :
As the name implies, these machines have electronic components that enable a wide variety of stitches (in some cases, they're no longer sewing machines, but embroidery machines), and they're very easy to use, with almost automatic machine settings for tension, stitch width/length, the ability to make a knot at the end of the seam, and automatic thread trimming. 

Pros:
-effectively, they offer time-saving facilities,
-they allow for fancy stitches that are close to embroidery,
-they are easier for beginners to learn.

Cons:
-the price is correspondingly higher, although the difference tends to diminish over the years,
-you won't be able to repair them yourself; you'll have to go through the after-sales service,
-they are often larger, but also more fragile during transport,
-if you buy a model over 5 years old, chances are it will break down more often than a mechanical machine.

Mechanical machines :
Even if there are fewer and fewer of them, they offer the advantage of being more solid than electronic machines. 

Pros:
-they're sturdier, can withstand transport, and although they're heavier, they're often more compact,
-you can easily learn to repair them yourself, and they cost less in the event of breakdown,
-they're less expensive (from €99).

Cons:
-they take some getting used to,
you need to know how to do-it-yourself, and maintain the machine yourself, which needs to be oiled and cleaned regularly, for example,
-functions are limited, particularly in terms of stitch diversity.

Our advice:
Think long-term before choosing your sewing machine. How often do you plan to use it, what kind of work do you want to do? Sometimes it's better to go for a mid-range machine. Price can be an obstacle, but it's possible to find very good mid-range/high-end machines in second-hand mechanical shops, and you'll see, if they've been well maintained, they'll last a lifetime. Don't hesitate to get in touch with brands that sometimes offer hands-on courses, so you can test the machines before making your choice! As for resale, beware of disappointment: they lose a lot of value, especially electronic machines!

In addition to machine selection, the video also includes tips on wires, needles and tension. Here's a short written summary:
Threads:
Be careful to choose the thickness of thread according to the thickness of the fabric. The thinner the fabric, the finer and smoother the thread required.
Cotton thread: ideal for all types of work, you can dye it if necessary at the same time as your garment. Its disadvantage is that it is more fragile and breaks.
Polyester yarn : This is the most common and widely used. It can be thick or thin, but has the advantage of being strong and smooth. But it can't be dyed!
Silk, linen or wool yarn: not necessarily of interest, except to maintain a coherent fabric/yarn composition. It's often a little more expensive. Advantage: since it's natural, you can dye it.
Cordonnet : This is a thick, milled thread used to reinforce seams. Use it on strong, thick fabrics such as heavy gabardine, denim, waterproof canvas, leather...
Transparent nylon thread : only used for invisible hems, you'll find it in transparent white or transparent black. It is heat-sensitive, so be careful when ironing!
Metallic thread: very beautiful for embroidery, it's temperamental, so we advise you to fill small quantities of bobbin each time, as it can strip easily.
Foam thread : for a soft seam against the skin, used for lingerie or overlocking. 
Elastic/elastane thread: useful for making gathers and smocks on your garments.
Tension:
Before tackling your garment, do a few tension tests on fabric scraps, stitching on one, two and three layers to see how your fabric, thread and machine react. If you're using different materials on the same garment, you may need to change tension or needle. Keep a small notebook nearby to record your comments! 
Here are the classic tension markers:
0 to 4: for fine, fragile fabrics: satin, chiffon, gauze or transparent voile, organza...
4 to 7: cotton voiles, poplin, satin, fine to medium-weight fabrics.
7 to 9: mainly thick gabardines, coated fabrics, denim.
Some older machines allow you to adjust the bobbin thread tension, so don't hesitate to check the instructions! 
Sometimes it's not the tension but the feed that's the problem, in which case you'll have to adjust the height of the grippers, or sew your fabric between 2 sheets of tissue paper (this is often the case with muslin).

Needles:
Apart from special needles, the most important thing is the number. Here are the main ones:
60: light, fine fabrics
70: cotton or viscose poplin, light polyester
80: light gabardine, slightly thicker fabrics
90: coated fabrics, denim, possibly leather
Remember to change needle every 8 hours of sewing. For coated fabrics, denim and fabrics with metallic threads (lurex), change needles every 5 hours of sewing!

And before we leave you, we'll leave you with a few pages of exercises here to do at home. Print the guides on standard printer paper. With an old, unthreaded needle, have fun following the lines without going over! It's a good way to get to grips with the machine and to measure the force of your foot on the pedal (you can cheat by using the steering wheel!). 

Enjoy your sewing session, and don't forget to take a look at this month's pattern, Victor shorts !
July 31, 2021