GOOD PEOPLE: LAUREN K. DE POPELINI

Happy Sunday company!

A while back I had the chance to meet Lauren K, the founder of Popelini patisserie. If you haven't lived deep in Mongolia for the past three years, you've probably heard of Popelini! Yes, you have, and it's a delightfully sweet address offering nothing but cream puffs. You can have an immediate treat in one bite with the choux du jour, make amends with the box of 6, or treat the open space with an assortment of 12 choux. I've followed the rise of this patisserie from afar, not really daring to cross the threshold because for me this kind of place is a place of glycemic perdition. Clearly, I find it hard to eat just one cabbage for a snack, out of the blue. I'd like to resist the temptation to try them all, but I'm weak in the face of a plump, colorful cabbage. It's true after all, how can I resist? 

In fact, when I was taking these pictures, I spent some time in the store on rue Debelleyme and was surprised by the mix of customers who pushed open the door of this little jewel: lots of men, mothers, lovers, grandparents, as if cabbage had become a federator of sweet kiffe. 

All this to say that a few weeks ago I met Lauren, for many reasons, not least because she's going to make the wedding cake. And as we chatted, I wanted to ask her some questions, because her career path is so inspiring. Lauren is a beautiful, passionate person, a true entrepreneur who knows how to surround herself with the right people!  

Curious question: I'm sure you've been asked this a thousand times before, but why "Popelini"? 

I chose to call our patisserie Popelini in homage to the Italian pastry chef who invented choux pastry, in 1540 at the court of Catherine de Médicis, from a fire-dried dough known as pâte à chaud. This name was gradually transformed into pâte à choux.

Heritage question: Your father is a famous pastry chef across the Atlantic, with his own brand of Parisian macaroons. Is pastry a family affair?  

It certainly has become one! We've always been a family of gourmets, but nothing predisposed us to be in this field. My father had to go to the United States to get into macaroons, which was the last straw! I immediately followed suit and set off to learn my trade with him, and it was love at first sight for such a demanding profession. It's a real pleasure to be able to create delicacies every day that put a smile on our customers' faces! 

 Guidance counsellor question: What is your career path? Was pastry-making a foregone conclusion, or did you come to it late in life?

As I said, it was a late bloomer. I did quite a few things before finding the right thing for me. After business school, a stint as a waitress and acting classes, and a brief exile in the United States, I came back to France with the idea of creating a concept entirely dedicated to choux à la crème, that round, plump little cake that's been a classic of French patisserie for so long. I had to give it back its letters of nobility.

Question groupie: I read that Chef Michalak advised you when you were writing your pastry concept and choux recipes. Can you tell me a little about how you met?

We met about ten years ago in the United States, when he helped create my father's macaron pastry shop. He's an extraordinary pastry chef, passionate and very generous! When I had the idea, he immediately encouraged me and helped me with the recipes.

Question jusqu'au boutiste: What struck me immediately on entering your boutiques is that nothing is left to chance. From the Popelini embroidery on your employees' hearts to the packaging, is the customer experience just as important to you as the recipes for your choux?

Of course it is! Above all, customers eat with their eyes. Of course, the products have to taste extraordinary, but the container is just as important as the content. Every detail counts, from the welcome in the store to the cabbage itself and the packaging, I pay attention to everything. 

Unusual question: What's the nicest customer feedback you've ever had?

When a customer comes back and tells us they can't live without our choux, it's a huge satisfaction for us. The most memorable feedback was from a regular customer who created a petition for the return of the strawberry mascarpone cabbage. It was very funny and his petition was heard, since it's back in our stores.

Question Vivaldi: With each change of season, the choux menu evolves. Is it a question of product quality, or do you imagine the menu as a colorful ready-to-wear collection?

It's a bit of both. We have three collections, each with 5 fragrances, so we take into account the fruit in season and the weather. This summer, we're focusing on fruit, with fragrances such as nectarine verbena, red berries, apricot rosemary and, of course, the famous strawberry mascarpone.

Proust's madeleine" question: What's your first taste memory?  

 Nostalgia question: What job would you have liked to have done as a child? 

Miniature question: So, definitely cabbage, or a little macaroon too? 

A bit of both. Even if my heart leans a little more towards cabbage, I never forget my first love.

Topical question: If it's no secret, what projects are you working on at the moment?  

Right now, we're looking for a bigger workshop, as ours has become far too small... the rest is still top secret!

Question: Do you have a favorite address for dining out with your lover?

I love Ferdi, a charming little restaurant with just a few tables. Their cheeseburger is a must and the passion fruit cocktails (guarapita) are delicious, but you have to book well in advance. 

Lauren offered me her book of cabbage recipes published by Marabout, and tomorrow I'm going to give you the recipe for sparkling cabbage with lemon... Her book is on sale in all good bookshops, as well as in her boutiques:

Popelini: 29 rue de Debelleyme, 75003 Paris or 44 rue des Martyrs 75009 Paris.

To read this post in English, click here!