Couture news

Last time, we gave you a few tips on how to prepare your fabric, and this time we're tackling the thorny subject of the sewing machine. Indispensable but sometimes temperamental, the sewing machine can be frightening and off-putting for beginners. However, with the right gestures and, above all, practice, you'll see that it's not difficult to understand your machine and that, with time, you'll come to know every one of its noises by heart. You'll find the video dedicated to this subject here. 

The biggest question is choosing the right machine. The difference in prices and brands can make you lose your head, but here's our advice. There are 2 main categories of machine: electronic and mechanical. Here are the pros and cons:

Electronic machines :
As the name implies, these machines have electronic components that enable a wide variety of stitches (in some cases, they're no longer sewing machines, but embroidery machines), and they're very easy to use, with almost automatic machine settings for tension, stitch width/length, the ability to make a knot at the end of the seam, and automatic thread trimming. 

Pros:
-effectively, they offer time-saving facilities,
-they allow for fancy stitches that are close to embroidery,
-they are easier for beginners to learn.

Cons:
-the price is correspondingly higher, although the difference tends to diminish over the years,
-you won't be able to repair them yourself; you'll have to go through the after-sales service,
-they are often larger, but also more fragile during transport,
-if you buy a model over 5 years old, chances are it will break down more often than a mechanical machine.

Mechanical machines :
Even if there are fewer and fewer of them, they offer the advantage of being more solid than electronic machines. 

Pros:
-they're sturdier, can withstand transport, and although they're heavier, they're often more compact,
-you can easily learn to repair them yourself, and they cost less in the event of breakdown,
-they're less expensive (from €99).

Cons:
-they take some getting used to,
you need to know how to do-it-yourself, and maintain the machine yourself, which needs to be oiled and cleaned regularly, for example,
-functions are limited, particularly in terms of stitch diversity.

Our advice:
Think long-term before choosing your sewing machine. How often do you plan to use it, what kind of work do you want to do? Sometimes it's better to go for a mid-range machine. Price can be an obstacle, but it's possible to find very good mid-range/high-end machines in second-hand mechanical shops, and you'll see, if they've been well maintained, they'll last a lifetime. Don't hesitate to get in touch with brands that sometimes offer hands-on courses, so you can test the machines before making your choice! As for resale, beware of disappointment: they lose a lot of value, especially electronic machines!

Introducing Vadim, the infinitely versatile summer top you can make in 3 hours top time, fabric cutting included! Easy to make and transform, you can turn it into a combi by adding a pair of pants, or into a dress by adding three panels of skirt! With this little bonus pattern from June, you can modify the sleeves, shorten it - in short, have fun! It's decorated with big buttons, but there's nothing to stop you using smaller ones, or adding snaps, or leaving it plain, so you can wear Vadim as an overshirt!

To sew Vadim you'll need :

-1m65 of fabric with a width of 1m40,

-6 buttons, diameter 15mm or 18mm

-and access to your subscription area ! Please note that this model is only available to Lemonade Couture Club subscribers!

We can't wait to see your creations and variations on this pattern, and we'll see you soon for next month's pattern, which will be much more challenging: the Vladimir jumpsuit!

Getting started in sewing isn't easy. Apart from knowing how to use a machine, learning sewing techniques and knowing where to buy each item, there are a thousand tips that we don't always have time to share with you in our tutorial videos. That's why we've decided to bring you a new monthly video format on specific sewing points, and a first video focusing on fabric, its preparation and mistakes to avoid, which you can find at here !

In addition to this video, you'll find below a glossary of terms to keep handy, as well as links to previous articles on materials at the bottom of the page. 

LEXICON

Plumbness : a garment must fall perfectly straight like a plumb line to the ground. If the seams deviate in one direction, or the fabric twists or pockets, it means that the plumb line was not respected when the fabric was cut, or that the fabric has become deformed.

Bias : imaginary line at 45° to the straight thread on the fabric. Clothes are cut on this line for greater stretch, but also to change the nature of the fabric's fall, which is often softer on the bias than on the straight thread. 

Bord-franc : This is the fringed edge of the fabric where it has been cut.

Cassant : adjective to describe a fairly stiff fabric that will tend to make large folds.

Composition: This refers to the percentage of raw materials used to manufacture the fabric. For example: 100% cotton or 70% viscose, 30% wool. Be careful not to confuse this with the material!

Straight-thread : imaginary line parallel to the selvedge, ensuring that the garment is plumb and does not distort over time. It corresponds to the warp thread.

Endroit : This is the visible side of the fabric when the garment has finished being assembled. It is either the brighter side of a print, or the prettier side of a weave (e.g. jacquard).

Obverse : this is the side against the skin of the fabric when the garment has finished being mounted. For a printed fabric, the reverse will often be duller. For a woven fabric, the pattern is less defined and there are often cut threads.

Felting : This is the reaction of wool to very hot steam. The wool then shrinks and compacts, sometimes becoming rougher. The action may be voluntary or involuntary, but it is irreversible! A felted wool has the advantage of becoming water-repellent or even almost waterproof.

Bulking : adjective to describe a fabric that seems to be filled with air. This fabric will stay up and in place without touching the skin.

Grammage : This is the weight of the fabric, often in grams per square meter.

Width : or more commonly "width" of the fabric. It ranges from 90cm to 150cm. The most common commercial widths are 110cm and 140cm.

Selvedge : edge of the fabric corresponding to the end of the weave. It is often a little stiffer than the fabric, with small holes (which are where the fabric was hung on the loom) and sometimes writing, such as the manufacturer's name or composition.

Heavy : adjective to describe a fabric that will fall against the skin. It is the opposite of a puffy fabric, and note that a fabric can be heavy, but have a low grammage, because here we're talking about the fall, not the weight of the fabric!

Lustrous : Shine on a fabric resulting from overheating. This risk is found in silk and wool, which do not tolerate high temperatures. 

Material: The fabric is often named after the material with the highest percentage. For example: cotton, silk, wool... Be careful not to confuse material with weave!

Pattemouille : damp cloth (preferably cotton) for ironing fabric without burning it.

Pocher: A peculiarity of certain materials (mainly silk and viscose) whose threads can stretch in some places more than in others, distorting the weave. This problem is mainly found in bias fabric, where if a garment is left on a hanger, the hem will be longer at the bias point, even if the piece was originally cut properly.

Weaving : This is the technique used to weave the fabric, not to be confused with the material. For example, satin is a weave, but the material can be silk, polyester or cotton. Similarly, a cotton voile, a cotton canvas and a cotton piqué are three different weaves with very different falls!

Tombé : This is the material from which the fabric is placed and "falls" if hung on a mannequin or held in the hand in the air. 

Don't forget our masterclasses, which you can find in your subscription area. They're a mine of information, but you can also reread some of our older articles!

Fabrics for sewing: Wool 

Fabrics for sewing: Cotton

Fabrics for sewing: Polyester

Introducing Valmy, the perfect project for a fearless start to your summer sewing vacation! This dress, which you can wear like a tunic in town, is available either in your subscription area today, or as a kit with exclusive Make My Lemonade fabric in our boutique 61 quai de Valmy and on our e-shop.

The kit includes :

-a fabric coupon with the pattern printed right on the fabric, so you don't have to worry about transferring the pattern,

-an explanatory booklet,

-a Make My Lemonade label.

All packaged in a pretty box to treat yourself or others!

If you buy Valmy as a kit, we advise you not to wash your fabric before cutting it, but to iron it well with plenty of steam to loosen it. To cut your pattern pieces, simply follow the red lines printed on the pattern!

And for subscribers, the pattern can be downloaded from your space. To make Valmy, you'll need :

-2.75m of fabric in 1.40m width,

-0.5m fusible webbing.

For summer, there's nothing better than a linen or cotton voile, but treat yourself: Valmy is infinitely versatile!

Enjoy your sewing session!

Introducing Vivianne, the dress that finally heralds the start of summer! Its buttoned shoulders and ruching give it the look of a Greek statue. Of course, it's a great base for multiple variations, with added pockets or slits. Choose a flowing fabric for a pretty fall, and have fun!

Introducing Renata, the dress you'll wear summer and winter alike! Its plunging neckline breaks the wise side of the shoulder ruffles, and its slit makes the skirt twirl. You can also make several slits if you like, for a similar effect to the Samantha skirt.

To make Renata, you'll need a lot of fabric, especially if it has a pattern with a reading direction. For this reason, we recommend a fabric width of 1m40. For the material, go for something fluid, at the risk of having ruffles that crack and swell. For wovens, voiles, poplins, muslins and crepes remain the must-haves. Silk, viscose, tencel or polyester should be favored for perfect fall.

To make Renata, you'll need :

-3.50m of fabric in 1.40m width,
-a 60cm invisible zip,
-4m bias,
-50cm lining in 1.40m width.
And if you like, you can secure the neckline with a small hand-sewn staple!

Happy sewing!

Charlie, the 80's-style shirt with the light tartan collar that we've been reissuing as a garment for the past 2 years, needs no introduction. Charlie is a fairly simple shirt if you've already sewn one or two garments, and it takes up the basics of sewing: learning how to make a collar, a tear-resistant slit and a button placket... This will be all the easier if you've already sewn the Léia blouse or the Simona shirt! 

Charlie's originality lies in its patch pockets with a box pleat, and flaps tucked into a yoke. By playing with topstitching (or not) and finishing touches, but also by choosing the right fabric, this shirt is a real chameleon: from a romantic, transparent shirt in chiffon, to a sporty spirit in cotton piqué, or a work shirt in chambray with contrasting topstitching! And why not give it a vacation feel in a Hawaiian shirt-style printed fabric?

To make Charlie, you'll need :

-1m90 of fabric in 1.40m width or 2m50 in 1.10m width,
-13 small buttons,
-50cm fusible web.

Enjoy your sewing session, and we'll see you in April with the Renata dress pattern!

Romy is our first pattern of the year, and a good opportunity to get back into sewing and practice a number of techniques: smocking with elastic thread, laying a tunnel of elastic, gathered ruffles, delicate handkerchief hems, she's a bit like the piece with all the little details that make a wow effect. 

We advise you to choose a fabric strong enough to withstand all the gathers, but supple enough to slide easily. Cotton, viscose and silk are the fibers of choice. In terms of weaves, avoid cotton poplin (too crisp and puffy for ruffles), but twill, crepe, satin and voile are still good choices. You can ditch the collar ruffle altogether for a more sober version!

To make Romy, you'll need :

-1.50m fabric in 1.40m width or 1.90m fabric in 1.10m width,
-50cm of elastic 0.75cm or 1cm wide,
-a spool of fine elastic thread for smocking,
-6 small buttons,
-1.20m bias tape.

Enjoy your sewing session and see you soon with the Samantha skirt tuto, which will be February's pattern of the month!

Here's Ringo, an elegant and cosy negligee perfect for ending the year on a high note. The English seams take a little time to finish, but it's ideal for beginners as the pieces are simple and easy to assemble. Exceptionally, you'll find this pattern either in your subscription area today, or as a kit with an exclusive Make My Lemonade fabric to be found from December 19 in our boutique 61 quai de Valmy, and very soon on our e-shop.

The kit includes :

-a fabric coupon with the pattern printed directly on the fabric, so you don't have to worry about transferring the pattern,

-an explanatory booklet,

-a Make My Lemonade label.

All in a pretty box to treat yourself or others, and start the year with a simple sewing project.

For subscribers, the pattern can be downloaded from your space. To make Ringo, you'll need :

-2.60m of fabric in 1.40m width or 3.30m of fabric in 1.10m width,

-0.7m fusible webbing.

We advise you to choose a soft, supple material if you're going to wear it against the skin: cotton, viscose and silk are preferable, but there's nothing to stop you from thinking of it as an indoor jacket and sewing it in fine wool or velvet.

And remember, when in doubt.., our tutorial videos are also here to help!

Enjoy your sewing session and the festive season!

The year is finally coming to an end, and even though we're all looking forward to it, there's still the eternal question of "what should I get for the festive season"? So we've decided to help you clear out your closets of leftover fabrics, and give your loved ones a treat at the same time! 
The solution? Camille, the revisited boxer shorts to slip under the tree for your sweeties, brothers, sisters, parents, cousins... for an express gift. Available in an infinite number of styles, you can also personalize them by embroidering initials or choosing fancy buttons. To transform the boxer shorts into pyjamas, we've added the pattern for a top!

Unfortunately, there will be no video for this tutorial, but you'll find all the steps in the booklet in your subscription area.

You'll need :

-1m15 fabric in 1.40m width or 1m30 fabric in 1m10 width,

-3cm wide elastic,

-2 buttons between 1cm and 1.5cm in diameter,

-1m bias tape.

If, like Philippine from Lemonade Studio, you sew at lightning speed, you'll be able to sew the Camille set + a pair of boxer shorts in half a day, and a little tip: you can replace the Camille top with the Agnès blouse from the Amour pyjamas!

And as December isn't over yet, we'll be back on December 14 for a 2nd pattern: the Ringo negligee!

See you soon!

Welcome to Odette, warmly acclaimed in our last vote! Very easy and very flattering, you can make it in half a day, fabric cutting included, for the fastest! Of course, don't forget to join the pattern in the middle front, if necessary, and choose your buttons carefully, because if they're small, you'll need more.

For more step-by-step details, see our Youtube channel is also there to guide you. We recommend you watch Odette's video to the end for a mini bonus on "how to quickly adjust the skirt to your shape".

To make it, you'll need: 

-1.55m fabric in 1.40m width or 2.05m fabric in 1.10m width,
-0.5m fusible webbing,
-8 buttons at least 18mm in diameter.

We recommend that you make this skirt in a slightly stretchy fabric for greater comfort. In winter, velvets, cold wools, satin-backed crepes are the must-have materials, but you can also opt for a beautiful brocade, silk doupion or neoprene for an haute couture effect! For summer, a stretch gabardine will look great, or an ottoman in a bright color.

Enjoy your sewing session, and see you soon!