This is Polette, the slightly vintage dress with the bust tied at the nape of the neck, decorated with rings. It fits all breasts without any risk of mishaps, thanks to the elastic that holds the fabric (and the bust) in place at the armholes. You can make it in a pleated fabric like ours, or in a normal fabric, gathered at the waist. And even if you're lucky enough to find sunray pleated panels, this will be a perfect opportunity to use them on the skirt part! 

Polette is a very easy dress, especially if you make it in a classic, slightly opaque fabric. On the other hand, if you want to make the cups and skirt in pleats, you'll need to remember to keep the pleats closed (with a hand stitch, machine stitch or scotch tape) before cutting your pieces, and this step can be a little tedious. As for the rest, there are no major complications, although we've decided to show you how to hem a muslin handkerchief for a truly haute-couture finish.

As for the choice of material, it will look best in a light chiffon or chiffon-like fabric, in polyester or silk. Avoid coarse fabrics such as linen and ramie, which can swell at the gathers. Cotton veils may be an option. If you decide to use a fabric that has already been pleated, make sure it contains >30% polyester, so that the pleat is permanent. Otherwise, you'll have to iron the pleat after each wash... We found ours at Marché Dreyfus, quite transparent but reasonably priced, and mixed it with a polyester muslin from Coupons Saint-Pierre. The mix of two shades of blue made the step-by-step easier to read, without breaking the bank. However, keep in mind that pleated fabrics are still quite expensive, so if you find an opaque one, you won't have to pay for a lining! As for the rings, they're a little extra touch of originality, and you'll be able to find them quite easily on the internet, in boutiques specializing in beads and primers. These ones come from Etsy and are made of acetate, but you can also find them in acrylic, metal or wood (beware of machine washing, which is not recommended for this last option). 

To sew Polette, you'll need :
-2m40 of fabric in 1.40m width,
-2m40 lining in 1.40m width if your fabric is transparent,
-70cm of 0.5cm wide elastic,
-1m elastic 4cm wide,
-2 rings with inner diameters from 35 to 45mm.

You'll find the video here and the booklet here. Next month you'll find the Flora jumpsuit pattern at the end of the month, and if you have the subscription, you'll also get a little surprise pattern to round off our Paris to Memphis collection!

July 20, 2022